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Pasta alla Zozzona is a rich, indulgent Roman classic that combines the best of carbonara, amatriciana and gricia in one bowl. Crumbled Italian sausage, crispy guanciale, tomato and a creamy Pecorino-egg sauce coat every rigatoni tube. The name means ‘the dirty one’ in Roman dialect, a nod to how gloriously over-the-top it is. Ready in 35 minutes.

Ingredients

  • 12 oz (340 g) rigatoni
  • 6 oz (170 g) Italian sausage, casings removed (mild or spicy)
  • 4 oz (115 g) guanciale or pancetta, cut into small strips
  • 1 tbsp olive oil, if needed
  • ½ cup (120 ml) dry white wine
  • ½ cup (120 ml) crushed tomatoes or tomato passata
  • 3 large egg yolks
  • 1 large whole egg
  • ¾ cup (75 g) finely grated Pecorino Romano, plus extra for serving
  • ¼ cup (25 g) grated Parmesan
  • 1 cup (240 ml) reserved pasta water, divided
  • 1 to 1½ tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving
  • Pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)
  • Salt, for the pasta water

Instructions

  1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it lightly, since the guanciale and Pecorino are already salty. Cook the rigatoni 1 to 2 minutes less than the package directions, until just shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, then drain.
  2. While the pasta cooks, whisk the egg yolks, whole egg, Pecorino, Parmesan and black pepper in a bowl with 2 tablespoons of warm pasta water until it forms a thick, creamy paste. Set aside.
  3. Place the guanciale in a large cold skillet and set over medium heat. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the edges are golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the fat in the pan.
  4. Add the sausage to the same skillet, breaking it into small crumbles. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes until browned and cooked through. Add red pepper flakes, if using.
  5. Pour in the white wine and scrape up the browned bits. Simmer for 2 minutes until mostly reduced, then stir in the crushed tomatoes. Simmer gently for 5 minutes until slightly thickened.
  6. Add the drained rigatoni and most of the guanciale to the skillet. Toss over low heat with ½ cup of pasta water for 1 to 2 minutes so the pasta finishes cooking in the sauce.
  7. Remove the skillet from the heat and let it cool for about 30 seconds. This step is essential so the eggs don’t scramble.
  8. Pour in the egg and cheese mixture and toss vigorously, adding more pasta water a splash at a time, until the sauce is silky and clings to the pasta.
  9. Serve immediately, topped with the remaining guanciale, extra Pecorino and plenty of black pepper.

Notes

  • Zozzona is a modern Roman dish that blends carbonara, amatriciana and gricia, with the addition of sausage. The name roughly means ‘the dirty one’ in Roman dialect.
  • Guanciale (cured pork cheek) is traditional and gives the best flavor. Pancetta is the best substitute. Bacon will work, but its smoky flavor changes the dish.
  • Always take the pan off the heat before adding the egg mixture. The residual heat is enough to create a creamy sauce without scrambling the eggs.
  • Go easy on the salt. Guanciale, sausage and Pecorino all bring plenty.
  • Pasta water is key. Its starch helps emulsify the eggs and fat into a glossy sauce, so keep extra on hand.
  • Room temperature eggs blend more smoothly and are less likely to curdle.
  • Best served right away. Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 2 days and reheated gently with a splash of water, though the sauce will not be as silky.
  • Raw eggs are only gently cooked in this dish. Use pasteurized eggs if you are serving young children, pregnant women or anyone with a weakened immune system.

Nutrition