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Italian white ragu pasta with wild mushrooms is a rich, savory tomato-free sauce built on slow-simmered ground pork and veal, earthy wild mushrooms, aromatic soffritto, white wine and a touch of cream. Tossed with wide ribbons of pappardelle and finished with Parmesan and fresh thyme, it’s cozy, elegant and perfect for a Sunday dinner or special gathering.

Ingredients

  • 12 oz (340 g) pappardelle, tagliatelle or rigatoni
  • 2 tbsp olive oil, divided
  • 1 tbsp unsalted butter
  • 8 oz (225 g) ground pork
  • 8 oz (225 g) ground veal or ground beef
  • 12 oz (340 g) wild mushrooms (porcini, chanterelle, oyster, cremini or a mix), cleaned and sliced
  • 1 small yellow onion, finely diced
  • 1 medium carrot, finely diced
  • 1 celery stalk, finely diced
  • 3 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine
  • 1½ cups (360 ml) chicken or beef broth
  • ½ cup (120 ml) whole milk or heavy cream
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 1 tsp leaves for serving
  • 1 bay leaf
  • ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
  • ⅔ cup (65 g) freshly grated Parmesan, plus extra for serving
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
  • 1 cup (240 ml) reserved pasta water, divided
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

  1. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large, wide skillet or Dutch oven over high heat. Add the mushrooms in a single layer (in batches if needed) and cook for 5 to 7 minutes without stirring too much, until deeply golden. Season with salt, transfer to a plate and set aside.
  2. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil and the butter. Add the onion, carrot and celery with a pinch of salt and cook for 6 to 8 minutes until soft and lightly golden. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.
  3. Add the ground pork and veal. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, breaking the meat into small crumbles, until no longer pink and lightly browned.
  4. Pour in the white wine and scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Simmer for 4 to 5 minutes until mostly reduced.
  5. Add the broth, thyme sprigs, bay leaf and nutmeg. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cook partially covered over low heat for 30 to 35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick and the meat is very tender.
  6. Stir in the milk and the cooked mushrooms. Simmer for 5 more minutes. Remove the thyme sprigs and bay leaf.
  7. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta 1 minute less than the package directions. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, then drain.
  8. Add the drained pasta to the ragu with ½ cup of the pasta water. Toss over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes until the sauce coats the pasta, adding more pasta water if needed.
  9. Remove from the heat. Stir in the Parmesan and parsley, then season with salt and pepper.
  10. Serve hot, topped with extra Parmesan, fresh thyme leaves and a drizzle of olive oil.

Notes

  • White ragu (ragù bianco) is a tomato-free meat sauce from Northern and Central Italy. It is lighter in color but just as rich as a classic red ragu.
  • Cook the mushrooms in a hot pan without crowding so they brown instead of steaming. Add salt after browning to keep them from releasing too much water.
  • If using dried porcini, soak 1 oz (30 g) in 1 cup of hot water for 20 minutes, chop them, and add the strained soaking liquid in place of ½ cup of the broth for extra depth.
  • Wide, flat pasta like pappardelle or tagliatelle holds the chunky sauce best. Rigatoni and paccheri also work well.
  • The longer the ragu simmers, the better it tastes. Add a splash of broth if it gets too thick.
  • For a lighter version, use ground turkey or chicken and replace the cream with milk.
  • For a vegetarian version, skip the meat, double the mushrooms and use vegetable broth.
  • Make ahead: the ragu keeps in the fridge for up to 4 days and freezes well for up to 3 months. Reheat gently and toss with freshly cooked pasta.
  • Store leftover pasta in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Reheat with a splash of broth or water.

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